■572.  “SG 

Un 


UNITED  STATES  SCHOOL  GARDEN  ARMY 

DEPARTMENT  OF  THE  INTERIOR 
GARDEN  MANUAL  No.  I 


BUREAU  OF  EDUCATION 
WASHINGTON 
V 

LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE 
CENTRAL  STATES  REGION 


FOLLOW  THE  PIED  PIPER 

Join  the  United  States 
School  Garden  Army. 


WASHINGTON  : GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE  : 1913 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


GARDEN  MANUAL  NO.  1. 


The  following  25  lessons  in  gardening  are  intended  for  the  use  of  teachers  and  supervisors 
of  gardening.  They  constitute  Garden  Manual  No.  1,  and  are  based  upon  the  leaflets  that  have 
already  been  issued  for  the  Central  States  region  by  the  United  States  School  Garden  Ai’my. 
The  subject  matter  contained  in  each  lesson  can  easily  be  taught  during  a 15-minute  period 
by  any  teacher  that  has  an  interest  in  gardening. 

These  lessons  can  be  made  a part  of  the  regular  work  in  nature  study,  elementary  science, 
elementary  agriculture,  or  garden  work.  They  are  suitable  for  any  grade  above  the  third. 


Group  I— GETTING  READY  TO  PLANT. 

Lesson  1.  First  Catch  Your  Rabbit. 

2.  How  to  Prepare  Your  Garden. 

3.  How  to  Plan  Your  Garden. 

4.  Companion  Crops. 

5.  Succession  Crops. 

6.  A One-Crop  Plan  for  a Small  Garden. 

7.  A Double-Crop  Plan  for  a Garden  60  by  50  Feet. 

8.  Buying  Garden  Seed. 

9.  Quantity  of  Seed  to  Buy. 

10.  Varieties  of  Seed  to  Buy. 

11.  When  to  Plant  in  the  Central  States. 

12.  How  to  Plant. 

13.  Commercial  Fertilizers  for  the  Garden. 

14.  Testing  Garden  Seed. 

Garden  Manual  No.  2 will  contain  lessons  on  the  later  garden  crops,  as  well  as  methods  of 
proven tmg  and  destroying  plant  diseases  and  insects  that  injure  these  crops. 

2 


Group  II— PLANTING  AND  CARING  FOR  THE  CROPS. 

Lesson  15.  Growing  and  Transplanting  Plants. 

16.  Thinning  the  Crops. 

17.  Replanting  the  Crops. 

18.  Lettuce. 

19.  Radishes. 

20.  Peas. 

21.  Onions. 

22.  Irish  Potatoes. 

23.  Beets. 

24.  Cabbage. 

25.  Carrots. 


U'u3 


\ 


.C 


I 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


Group  L— GETTING  READY  TO  PLANT. 


Lesson  One:  FIRST,  CATCH  YOUR  RABBIT. 

You  remember  the  story  of  the  hoy  who  was  telling  about  the  rabbit  he  was  going  to  eat, 
and  his  father  said,  “Son,  first  catch  your  rabbit.”  Well,  that’s  the  way  you  must  do  with 
these  school  gardens.  Before  you  can  eat  the  crops  you  expect  to  grow,  you  must  get  the 
garden. 

For  you  boys  and  girls  living  in  the  country  this  will  probably  be  an  easy  matter.  Your 
fathers  will  be  glad  to  give  you  a piece  of  land  for  your  owm  use,  as  large  as  you  are  able  to 
handle,  where  you  can  grow  as  many  kinds  of  crops  as  you  wish. 

For  you  boys  and  girls  living  in  the  towns  or  cities  it  may  be  a little  harder  to  get  the  land 
for  your  garden.  But  many  of  you  will  have  a back  yard  of  your  own  where  many  vegetables 
can  be  grown;  or  your  next-door  neighbor  will  be  glad  to  let  you  use  his  back  yard.  At  any 
rate,  don’t  be  discouraged  if  you  can’t  find  a place  for  your  garden  the  first  thing.  By  looking 
around  and  sticking  to  it  you  will  find  that  there  are  a great  many  back  yards  and  vacant  lots 
near  your  own  home  which  the  owmers  will  be  proud  to  let  you  use  after  you  have  told  them 
of  the  wonderful  work  the  School  Garden  Army  is  doing. 

If  your  garden  is  to  be  in  a back  yard,  pick  out  one  that  is  not  shaded  too  much  by  trees  or 
buildings.  Growing  things  need  sunlight  and  plenty  of  it.  And  try  to  pick  out  land  that  isn’t 
all  clay  or  gravel.  You  can’t  expect  to  grow  much  on  soil  like  that.  Ask  one  of  yoim  friends 
who  has  a garden  of  his  own  to  help  you  pick  out  the  right  place  for  your  garden. 

Lesson  Two:  HOW  TO  PREPARE  YOUR  GARDEN. 

The  soil  for  your  garden  should  be  spaded  or  plowed  if  possible  in  the  fall.  If  this  can  not 
be  done,  then  you  should  do  it  as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible.  If  your  garden  is  too  small  to 
be  plowed  with  a team,  you  should  spade  it  deeply  with  a spading  fork.  Deep  plowing  and 
spading,  followed  by  thorough  harrowing  and  raking,  puts  the  soil  in  the  best  condition  to  make 
your  plants  grow.  When  the  soil  is  spaded,  each  spadeful  as  it  is  turned  over  shoidd  be  broken 
up  by  striking  with  the  back  of  the  spade.  When  yom  garden  soil  crumbles  in  your  hands,  it  is 
just  right. 

Vegetables  are  heavy  feeders  and,  therefore,  they  need  a rich  soil.  Many  experienced 
gardeners  use  what  is  known  as  compost  on  their  gardens.  A compost  heap  is  made  of  a mixture 
of  meadow  sod,  leaves,  straw,  grass,  lawn  clippings,  unused  portions  of  food  and  vegetables,  sweep- 
ings from  unoiled  streets,  lime  or  wood  ashes,  stable  manure,  and  soil.  The  plan  usually  followed 
is  to  first  spread  out  a layer  of  manure  about  4 inches  deep,  then  one  of  leaves  or  straw  or  vege- 
table waste.  Upon  these  sprmkle  a small  quantity  of  lime  or  wood  ashes;  then  foUow  with  a 

3 


4 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


layer  of  earth  an  inch  or  two  thick.  Repeat  this  until  all  your  material  has  been  arranged  in 
layers  and  placed  in  piles.  Alternate  layers  of  leaves  or  straw  prevent  the  plant  food  contained 
in  the  stable  fertilizer  and  street  sweepings  from  being  washed  out  and  lost. 

Turn  over  your  compost  heap  with  a spading  fork  about  twice  a season.  This  mixes  the 
materials  more  thoroughly  and  makes  them  decay  more.  In  a dry  climate  you  should  pour  water 
on  the  heap  occasionally. 

As  soon  as  part  of  your  compost  heap  has  rotted  down  enough  to  mix  readily  with  the  soil 
it  should  he  spaded  in  wherever  needed.  The  coarser  portions  which  are  slow  to  decay  may  well 
be  buried  in  the  bottom  of  border  beds  for  perennial  flowers  or  vegetables. 

The  thorough  working  into  the  soil  of  any  stable  or  commercial  fertilizer  is  important. 
Garden  soils  composed  largely  of  clay  are  very  likely  to  be  sour,  but  you  can  fix  this  by  putthig 
1 pound  of  air-slacked,  burned,  or  hydrated  lime;  2 pounds  of  ground  limestone;  or  3 pounds 
of  unleached  wood  ashes  on  every  25  square  feet  of  garden  space.  Coal  ashes  will  help  to  loosen 
up  a clay  soil. 

The  proper  preparation  of  the  soil  and  thorough  working  of  all  fertilizers  into  the  soil  are 
of  utmost  importance.  The  success  of  your  garden  wiU  depend  very  largely  upon  the  thorough- 
ness with  which  your  seed  bed  has  been  prepared. 

Lesson  Three:  HOW  TO  PLAN  YOUR  GARDEN. 

Many  of  us  think  of  gardening  as  work  to  be  done  only  during  a few  brief  weeks  in  the 
spring.  This  is  wrong.  Your  garden  will  do  its  best  for  you  if  plans  for  it  are  made  in  the 
autumn  and  much  of  its  preparation  done  then. 

Here  are  some  things  you  should  think  of  in  planning  a garden: 

1.  Size. — The  average  boy  or  girl  can  easily  spade'  and  care  for  a garden  10  by  30  feet. 
A garden  of  this  size  will  go  far  to  supply  vegetables  for  a family  of  four.  Your  garden  should 
be  sufficiently  large  to  grow  enough  vegetables  to  make  it  worth  while,  but  not  so  large  as  to 
make  its  care  too  much  of  a task. 

2.  Width  between  voids. — Rows  must  be  farther  apart  if  a horse  or  handwheel  cultivator 
•"s  used  than  if  you  use  hand  tools,  such  as  a hoe  or  rake. 

3.  Paths. — Since  your  plants  must  receive  personal  attention  you  should  plan  your  garden 
with  paths  so  that  you  can  reach  all  parts  of  it  without  tramping  down  the  plants. 

4.  Rotation. — This  means  using  the  same  ground  for  the  growth  of  one  kind  of  crop, 
followed  by  another  of  a different  kind,  as  a crop  of  corn  followed  by  a crop  of  beans.  Each 
plant  has  habits  peculiar  to  itself.  One  plant  may  draw  heavily  on  soil  potash,  another  on 
soil  nitrogen.  Besides,  certain  plants  grown  time  after  time  in  the  same  soil  tend  to  poison  it. 
Your  planting  schemes  should  avoid  growing  the  same  kind  of  plants  over  and  over  on  the 
same  ground. 

5.  Keeping  your  garden  at  work. — A planting  calendar  will  tell  you  how,  by  second  and 
third  sowings,  you  can  have  fresh  vegetables  at  all  times  during  the  gardening  season. 

6.  Use  all  your  land. — Vegetables  which  ripen  quickly  may  be  grown  among  those  which 
ripen  slowly.  Thus  lettuce,  radishes,  spinach,  and  hke  vegetables  may  be  planted  in  the  soil 
between  tomato  plants,  potatoes,  corn,  etc. 

7.  Plants  to  grovn— The  kinds  of  plants  to  be  grown  will  determine  very  largely  the  nature 
of  your  plan.  Radishes  and  lettuce  may  be  planted  closer  together  than  cabbages  or  corn. 

8.  Adding  a touch  of  beauty.— Finaliy,  if  you  wish  to  make  your  garden  not  only  productive 
but  attractive,  flowers  may  be  grown  about  the  borders. 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


5 


Lesson  Four:  COMPANION  CROPS. 

Some  common  examples  of  companion  cropping  are  carried  out  by  the  following  plans: 

1.  Slow-growing  plants  like  melons,  cabbages,  and  cauliflower  occupy  only  a small  space 
of  ground  for  several  weeks  after  planting.  For  this  reason  a few  rows  of  early  radishes,  lettuce, 
or  turnips  may  be  grown  between  hills  or  rows  of  melons,  cabbages,  or  cauliflower. 

2.  The  plan  suggested  in  former  leaflets  of  marking  rows  of  parsnips,  carrots,  or  onions 
with  radishes  or  lettuce  is  an  example  of  companion  cropping. 

3.  Many  gardeners  set  lettuce  plants  between  rows  of  early  potatoes,  tomatoes,  or  corn. 

4.  Plant  pole  beans  in  the  hills  of  sweet  corn  or  field  corn  or  near  a single  sunflower  plant. 
The  cornstalks  or  sunflower  plants  will  furnish  support  for  the  bean  vine. 

5.  Pumpkins  may  be  planted  in  the  rows  of  corn,  especially  in  large  gardens. 

6.  When  melon  or  cucumber  hills  are  made  8 feet  apart  each  way,  plant  two  or  three 
rows  of  early  bunch  beans  between  each  row  of  melons  or  cucumbers.  Pick  the  beans  as  soon  as 
they  are  ready  for  table  use.  Pull  the  bean  stalks  after  removing  the  beans  from  the  stalks. 

7.  As  the  early  potatoes  begin  to  reach  maturity  and  the  vines  show  signs  of  turning  brown, 
plant  an  early  variety  of  sweet  corn  or  sow  turnip  seed  between  the  potato  rows. 

Lesson  Five:  SUCCESSION  CROPS. 

Some  examples  of  succession  cropping  are  suggested  in  lesson  No.  7 — the  double-crop  plan. 
Other  suggestive  methods  are  as  follows: 

1.  Early  lettuce,  followed  by  celery. 

2.  Early  radishes,  followed  by  cabbage. 

3.  Early  peas,  followed  by  late  beets. 

No  gardener  wdl  care  to  plant  all  of  these  crops  suggested  in  this  lesson  and  lesson  No.  7, 
but  will  desire  to  use  those  best  adapted  to  his  local  conditions. 

CROPS  PLANTED  AT  TEN-DAY  INTERVALS. 

The  following  crops  may  be  planted  at  intervals  of  10  days  or  2 weeks: 

Radishes.  Peas.  Spinach.  Early  Turnips. 

Dwarf  Beans.  Lettuce.  Early  Corn.  Early  Beets. 

This  plan  wdl  insure  a continuous  supply  of  produce  for  the  table  throughout  the  growing 
season. 


6 LESSONS  IN  GAKDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 

Lesson  Six:  A ONE-CROP  PLAN  FOR  A SMALL  GARDEN. 

The  following  form  for  a one-crop  plan  may  prove  suggestive  in  planning  your  garden, 
where  the  space  for  growing  vegetables  is  very  hmited: 

so  feet  long  by  20  feet  wide. 


12  Dwarf  Beans,  early  variety 
12  Dwarf  Beans,  early  variety 
12  Dwarf  Beans,  early  variety  (two  weeks  later) 
12  Dwarf  Beans,  late  variety 
6 Onion  sets 
6 Onion  sets 
6 Radishes 
6 Radishes 

12  Early  Beets  (marked  with  Radishes) 

12  Later  Beets  (marked  with  Radishes) 

24  Lettuce  (plants  if  possible) 

24  Lettuce  (two  weeks  after  first  plant) 

12  Spinach 
24  Peas,  early 
24  Peas,  early 

24  Peas  (two  weeks  after  above  planting) 

24  Peas,  late  variety 
24  T urnips,  early 
24  Early  Tomatoes 
24  Early  Tomatoes 
24  Late  Tomatoes 
1 2 Peppers 


Note. — The  numbers  on  the  left  indicate  the  distance  in  inches  the  rows  are  apart. 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


7 


Lesson  Seven:  A DOUBLE-CROP  PLAN  FOR  GARDEN. 

The  following  form  may  prove  suggestive  in  planning  a double-crop  system  for  a garden; 


First  crop  small  letters — Second  crop  capital  letters. 

50  feet  long  by  00  feet  wide. 


18  Onion  sets 

SWEET  CORN 

18  Onion  sets 

18  Lettuce 

SWEET  CORN 

18  Early  Beets 

18  Early  Beets 

SWEET  CORN 

18  Early  Peas 

18  Early  Peas 

SWEET  CORN 

24  Bush  Beans 

24  Bush  Beans 

LATE  CABBAGE 

24  Bush  Beans 

18  Carrots 

LATE  CABBAGE 

18  Carrots 

18  Radishes 

LATE  CABBAGE 

30  Early  Potatoes 

WINTER  RADISHES 

30  Early  Potatoes 

TURNIPS 

30  Early  Potatoes 

TURNIPS 

30  Early  Potatoes 

TURNIPS 

30  Early  Potatoes 

TURNIPS 

18  Spinach 

TOMATOES 

18  Parsnips 

24  Spinach 

TOMATOES 

24  Endive  or  Parsley 

24  Peppers 

LIMA  BEANS  (POLE) 

12  Onions  from  seed 

12  Onions  from  seed 

LIMA  BEANS  (POLE) 

12  Onions  from  seed 

48  Asparagus  bed 

WINTER  ONIONS  RHUBARB 

Note. — The  numbers  on  the  left  indicate  the  distance  in  inches  the  rows  are  apart. 

Gardens  of  the  larger  size  permit  of  greater  space  between  the  rows  and  hence  easier  cultivation. 

Lesson  Eight:  BUYING  GARDEN  SEED. 

The  best  seeds  have  had  their  ancestors  carefully  selected  by  the  men  who  grew  them. 
The  fields  in  which  they  were  being  produced  have  been  gone  over  frequently  and  all  unpromising 
plants  removed.  This  has  left  for  seed  production  only  those  true  to  the  type  desired. 


8 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


Such  selection  costs  money.  So  the  selected  Seeds  are  likely  to  be  a little  higher  in  price 
than  those  unselected.  But  they  are  well  worth  the  difference.  The  reputable  seedsmen  make 
it  a rule  to  handle  only  selected  seeds. 

The  first  result  of  selection  is  the  production  of  standard  varieties.  It  is  important, 
therefore,  for  a pupil  to  buy  seed  recognized  as  a standard  variety  rather  than  simply  a packet 
of  seed.  He  is  likely  to  get  a better  crop  and  at  the  same  time  learn  to  recognize  good  seed. 

So  in  planning  for  the  seed  order,  the  first  thing  is  to  plan  to  buy  good  seed  and  the  second 
is  to  plan  to  buy  named  varieties. 

Seeds  may  be  bought  in  bulk  much  cheaper  than  in  packets.  The  making  of  small  envelopes 
or  seed  packets  is  an  excellent  school  exercise.  So  is  the  dividing  of  seeds  in  bulk  into  small 
sets.  The  working  out  of  the  cost  of  the  smaller  portions  when  a pound  is  so  divided,  furnishes 
a good  problem  in  arithmetic. 

The  following  suggestions  are  therefore  made  as  to  the  buying  of  seeds: 

1.  Wliere  practicable  buy  in  bulk  of  reliable  seed  houses,  and  subdivide  the  seeds  with  the 
help  of  the  pupils. 

2.  Buy  named  varieties,  selecting  either  those  recommended  on  the  lists  sent  out  from  this 
office  or  those  which  have  been  found  successful  by  local  gardeners.  An  excellent  way  to  get 
the  pupils  interested  is  to  ask  them  to  find  out  the  names  of  successful  varieties  grown  locally 
by  home  or  professional  gardeners. 

3.  Wlien  the  seeds  are  bought  in  prepared  packets,  get  named  varieties  if  possible. 


Lesson  Nine:  QUANTITY  OF  SEED  TO  BUY. 


The  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  in  their  Farmers’  Bulletin  No.  934,  suggests 
the  following  amounts  of  the  various  kinds  of  seed  to  be  a sufficient  quantity  for  a family  of 
four  persons.  Taking  these  amounts  as  a basis,  a soldier  in  the  U.  S.  S.  G.  A.  can  make  an 
estimate  as  to  the  proper  amount  of  seed  to  purchase  before  actual  planting  time  arrives.  In 
fact,  the  figuring  of  the  amounts  is  a splendid  school  exercise  for  the  children.  It  will  make 
school  arithmetic  a live  subject  in  the  minds  of  the  pupils. 


Bean : 

Bush  Lima. 

Pole  Lima. . 

Snap 

Beet 

Cabbage; 

Early 

Late 

Carrot 

Cauliflower 

Celery 

Corn,  Sweet. ... 

Cucumber 

Eggplant 

Kale 

Lettuce 

Melon: 

Musk  melon. 

Watermelon 


1 pint. 

1 pint. 

1 to  2 quarts. 
4 ounces. 

1 packet. 

J ounce. 

1 ounce. 

1 packet. 
Ipacket. 

I to  2 pints. 

1 ounce. 

1 packet. 

2 ounces. 
i ounce. 

1 ounce. 

1 ounce. 


Onion  sets 

Pea,  garden . . 

Parsley 

Parsnip 

Radish 

Salsify 

Spinach; 

In  spring 
In  fall... 
Squash; 

Hubbard 

Summer. 

Tomato: 

Early 

Late 

Turnip 


4 to  6 quarts- 
4 to  6 quarts. 
1 packet, 
i ounce. 

I ounce. 

I ounce. 

i ounce. 

J pound. 

1 ounce. 

1 ounce. 

1 packet. 

J ounce. 

2 to  3 ounces. 


The  above  amounts  will  furnish  a sufficient  quantity  of  seed  for  succession  cropping  and 
will  provide  a surplus  for  canning,  drying,  and  storing. 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


9 


Lesson  Ten:  VARIETIES  OF  SEED  TO  BUY, 


VEGETABLES.  VARIETY. 

Beans,  green  bush Green  Pod — Red  Valentine. 

Beans,  green  pole Kentucky  Wonder. 

Beans,  bush  lima Landreth — Burpee’s  Bush. 

Beans,  pole  lima Seidert — Ideal. 

Beets,  red Crosby’s  Egyptian — Detroit  Red. 

Cabbage,  early Jersey  Wakefield — Copenhagen. 

Cabbage,  late Flat  Dutch — Danish  Ball  Head. 

Carrots French  Forcing — Half  Long  Scarlet. 

Celery Easy  Blanching — Columbia. 

Corn,  sweet Country  Gentleman — Golden  Bantam. 

Cucumber Emerald — White  Spine. 

Lettuce,  leaf Grand  Rapids — Blackseeded. 

Lettuce,  head Big  Boston — May  King. 

Onion  sets White  Silverskin. 

Onion  dry Yellow  Globe — Silver  King. 

Parsley Plain  Leaved — Moss  Curled. 

Parsnip Hollow  Crown — Sugar. 

Peas Telephone — American  Wonder. 

Potatoes Early  Ohio — Irish  Cobbler — Early  Rose. 

Potatoes Burbank — Sir  Walter  Raleigh. 

Radish,  early Scarlet  Globe — Short  Top. 

Radish,  summer White  Icicle. 

Radish,  winter Japanese. 

Tomato Red  Rock — Jewel . 

Turnip,  white Wliite  Globe — Purple  Top  Globe. 


The  above  suggested  varieties  have  proven  dependable  throughout  the 
States  comprising  the  Central  Division.  This  list  should  be  kept  in  a con- 
venient place  for  use  in  connection  with  purchasing  seeds  for  your  garden. 

Lesson  Eleven:  WHEN  TO  PLANT  IN  THE  CENTRAL  STATES. 

Boys  and  girls  in  their  public-school  work  in  geography  are  called  upon  to  study  the 
“zones.”  They  learn  to  think  of  them  as  heat  belts.  These  heat  belts,  for  reasons  that  are 
taught  in  geography,  cause  gardeners  much  study  of  the  proper  time  to  plant. 

We  have  found  that  in  Kansas,  Missouri,  southern  Iowa,  Illinois,  Indiana,  and  the  southern 
half  of  Ohio  the  planting  dates  for  the  same  crops  are  similar.  Tliis  section  we  will  call  zone  E. 
Nebraska,  northern  Iowa,  southern  Wisconsin,  southern  Michigan,  northern  Ohio,  because  of 
similar  climatic  conditions,  we  will  call  zone  F.  North  Dakota,  northern  South  Dakota,  Minne- 
sota, northern  Wisconsin,  and  northern  Michigan  have  also  the  same  climatic  conditions,  and 
therefore  we  will  caU  this  zone  G. 

The  Weather  Bureau  has  fooind  the  average  time  of  the  last  killing  frost  in  zone  E to  be 
between  April  15  and  May  1.  In  zone  F between  May  1 and  May  15.  In  zone  G between 
May  15  and  June  1. 

For  convenience  in  studying  the  time  of  planting  vegetables,  the  United  States  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture  has  divided  vegetable  crops  into  vegetable  groups  as  follows: 

Group  1.  Consisting  of  early  cabbage  plants  from  hotbed  or  seed  box,  radishes,  onion  sets, 
early  smooth  peas,  early  potatoes,  turnips,  and  mustard.  These  crops  may  be  planted  two 
weeks  before  the  last  killing  frost.  • 

Group  2.  Consisting  of  beets,  parsnips,  carrots,,  lettuce,  salsify,  spinach,  wrinkled  peas, 
cauliflower  plants,  celery  seed,  onion  seed,  parsley,  and  sweet  corn.  These  crops  may  be  planted 
about  the  date  of  the  last  killing  frost. 

Group  3.  Consisting  of  snap  beans,  okra,  and  tomato  plants.  These  crops  should  be  planted 
two  weeks  after  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

114174°— 19 2 


10 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


Group  4.  Consisting  of  lima  beans,  pepper  plants,  eggplant,  cucumbers,  melons,  squash, 
and  sweet  potatoes.  These  crops  can  not  be  planted  until  aU  danger  of  frost  is  over,  which  is 
about  four  weeks  after  the  last  killing  frost. 

The  following  diagram  illustrates  the  planting  dates  of  the  above  vegetable  groups: 


Zone. 

Group  1. 

Group  2. 

Group  3. 

Group  4. 

E 

Mar.  15-Apr.  15 

Apr.  15-May  1 

May  1-May  15 

May  15-June  1 

F 

Apr.  15-May  1 

May  1-May  15 

May  15-June  1 

May  15-June  15 

G 

May  1-May  15 

May  15-June  1 

May  15-June  15 

Season  too  short. 

Lesson  Twelve:  HOW  TO  PLANT. 


Quantity  of  seeds  or  number  of  plants  required  for  a row  of  100  feet  in  length,  mth  distance 
apart  in  rows,  depth  of  planting,  and  average  days  required  for  maturity. 


Kind  of  vegetable. 


Seeds  or  plants  re- 
quired for  100  feet. 


Planted  apart  in 
rows. 


Depth  of  planting. 


Ready  for  use  after 
planting. 


Beans,  bush 

Beans,  pole 

Beets 

Cabbage,  early. 
Cabbage,  late. . 

Carrot 

Celery 

Corn,  sweet 

Cucumber 

Lettuce 

Muskmelon . . . . 

Watermelon 

Onion  seed 

Onion  sets 

Parsnip 

Peas 

Pepper 

Potato,  Irish... 

Radish 

Rhubarb  seed . . 
Rhubarb  plants 

Rutabaga 

Salsify 

Spinach 

Squash,  bush... 

Squash,  late 

Tomato 

Turnip 


1 pint 

4 pint 

2 ounces. . . 
4 ounce . . . 

4 ounce . . . 
I ounce . . . 
I ounce . . . 

i pint 

^ ounce . . . 
J ounce . . . 
J ounce . . . 
1 ounce . . . 
I ounce . . . 

I quart 

J ounce . . . 
1 to  2 pints 
J ounce . . . 

5 pounds . . 
1 ounce . . . 
i ounce . . . 
33  plants . . 
1 ounce . . . 
1 ounce . . . 
1 ounce . . . 
^ ounce . . . 
^ ounce . . . 
J ounce . . . 
\ ounce . . . 


5 to  8 inches 

3 to  4 feet 

5 to  8 inches 

12  to  18  inches 

16  to  24  inches 

6 to  10  inches 

4 to  8 inches 

30  to  36  inches 

4 to  6 feet 

4 to  6 inches 

Hills,  6 feet 

Hills,  10  feet 

4 to  6 inches 

4 to  8 inches 

5 to  8 inches 

15  to  foot  

15  to  18  inches  . . . . 

14  to  18  inches 

8 to  12  to  foot 

6 to  8 inches 

3 feet 

6 to  8 inches 

2 to  4 inches 

7 or  8 to  foot 

Hills,  3 to  4 feet.. . 
Hills,  7 to  9 feet.. . 

3 feet  (plants) 

6 to  7 to  foot 


to  1 inch. .. 
to  2 inches, 
to  2 inches. 

inch 

inch 

inch 

inch 

to  2 inches, 
to  2 inches. 

inch 

to  2 inches, 
to  2 inches, 
to  1 inch. .. 
to  2 inches . 
to  1 inch. . . 
to  3 inches . 

inch 

inches 

to  1 inch . . . 
to  1 inch. . . 
to  3 inches . 
to  1 inch. . . 
to  1 inch. . . 
to  2 inches . 
to  2 inches . 
to  2 indies . 
to  1 inch. . . 
to  J inch . . . 


40  to  65  days. 

50  to  80  days. 

60  to  80  days. 

90  to  130  days. 
90  to  130  days. 
75  to  110  days. 
120  to  150  days. 
60  to  100  days. 
60  to  80  days. 

60  to  90  days. 
120  to  150  days. 
100  to  120  days. 
130  to  150  days. 
90  to  120  days. 
125  to  160  days. 
40  to  80  days. 
100  to  140  days. 
80  to  140  days. 
20  to  40  days. 

2 to  4 years. 

1 to  3 years. 

60  to  80  days. 
120  to  180  days. 
30  to  60  days. 

60  to  80  days. 
120  to  160  days. 
100  to  140  days. 
(iO  to  80  days. 


The  distance  in  inches  the  rows  are  apart  will  be  found  by  consulting  lessons  6 and  7. 
Part  of  the  data  contained  in  the  above  table  was  taken  from  Farmers’  BuUetm  No.  S18. 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


11 


Lesson  Thirteen:  COMMERCIAL  FERTILIZERS  FOR  THE  GARDEN. 

Compost,  manure  from  the  stable,  henhouse,  or  pigeon  loft,  are  the  best  fertilizers  for  the 
garden.  Wlien  these  are  not  available  in  suflicient  quantities  then  we  find  it  necessary  to  secure 
commercial  fertilizers.  It  is  also  often  advisable  to  use  commercial  fertilizers  as  a supplement 
to  manure. 

For  a garden  containing  1,000  to  1,250  square  feet,  10  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda  and  30 
pounds  of  a'cid  phosphate  will  make  a good  application.  The  nitrate  of  soda  is  applied  by 
placing  half  of  the  quantity  in  the  row  at  planting  time  and  the  other  half  scattered  broadcast 
and  raked  into  the  soil.  A ton  of  stable  manure  could  he  used  on  a garden  1,000  or  1,250  square 
feet  in  size.  Results  on  a garden  of  the  above  size  would  he  better,  however,  if  to  this  amount 
of  stable  fertilizer  50  pounds  of  acid  phosphate  could  be  added  and  well  raked  in  just  as  soon 
as  the  ground  is  plowed. 

Most  seed  and  fertilizer  houses  now  sell  ready-prepared  garden  fertilizers.  These  can  be 
purchased  in  small  quantities.  A good  garden  fertilizer  will  contain  3 to  5 per  cent  nitrogen 
8 to  10  per  cent  phosphoric  acid,  and  2 per  cent  potash.  The  dealer  will  explain  the  best  mix- 
tures for  the  different  types  of  soil.  Most  gardeners  count  on  using  about  5 pounds  of  com- 
mercial fertilizer  for  each  100  square  feet  of  garden  space.  For  a small  supply  of  potash  add 
150  pounds  of  unleached  hardwood  ashes.  These  ashes  serve  a double  purpose,  since  the}^ 
contain  about  30  per  cent  of  lime. 

A little  study  of  the  best  methods  of  using  commercial  fertilizers  on  any  garden  will  yield 
the  gardener  a splendid  reward  for  his  time  spent. 

Lesson  Fourteen:  TESTING  GARDEN  SEED. 

Reliable  seed  houses  and  successful  gardeners  make  it  a part  of  their  business  to  carefully 
test  their  seeds  they  plant  or  sell.  Even  when  this  is  done,  it  sometimes  happens  that  before 
the  seeds  are  planted  their  vitality  is  injured. 

TESTING — A SIMPLE  PROCESS. 

The  testing  of  seeds  may  be  accomplished  by  using  any  of  the  following  plans: 

1.  Take  a chalk  box  and  fill  it  with  sand.  Plant  100  seeds  in  the  sand.  See  lesson  No. 
12  for  depth  of  planting.  Cover  this  chalk  l)ox  with  some  glass  and  keep  in  a temperature  of 
about  TO"^  F.  Note  percentage  of  seed  that  germinates.  Number  the  box.  Number  the  pack- 
age of  seed  to  correspond  with  the  number  on  the  box.  This  plan  is  to  remind  us  which  pack- 
age is  being  tested. 

2.  Moisten  sheets  of  blotting  paper.  Between  two  sheets  of  the  paper  place  100  hundred 
seeds.  Keep  in  a warm  room.  Note  percentage  of  germination.  Number  the  sheets.  Num- 
ber the  package  to  correspond  to  the  number  on  the  sheets. 

3.  Fill  two  small  bags  with  sawdust.  Moisten  these  bags.  Place  100  seeds  between  these 
bags  and  note  percentage  that  germinates.  Be  sure  to  keep  in  warm  place.  Number  the  bags. 
Place  same  number  on  package  as  you  do  on  bags. 

By  testing  seed  we  determme  not  only  the  percentage  that  will  germinate,  but  also  the 
strength  of  the  seed  germ.  When  seeds  show  a very  weak  germ  we  conclude  they  are  not  fit  to 
plant.  Garden  seed  that  most  gardeners  consider  good  to  plant  show  that  75  per  cent  of  them  will 
germinate  and  produce  a strong  germ.  If  they  show  a smaller  percentage  of  germination,  we 
must  either  discard  the  entire  package  that  is  being  tested  as  unfit  to  plant  or  sow  more  thickly 
than  lesson  No.  12  suggested  to  make  up  for  the  weak  or  inferior  seeds.  The  better  plan  would 
likely  be  to  discard  package  from  which  samples  were  taken  that  show  a low  percentage  of 
germination  and  an  inferior  germ  and  get  new  seed.  If  you  use  this  plan  of  sowing  thickly, 
it  means  thinning  out  later  as  well  as  an  uneven  stand  of  plants.  You  wiU  also  lie  likely  to 
have  plants  that  are  very  irregular  in  growth  and  maturity.  The  best  gardeners  always  test 
seed  before  planting. 


Group  II.-PLANTING  AND  CARING  FOR  THE  CROPS. 


Lesson  Fifteen:  GROWING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  PLANTS. 

Garden  plants  may  be  grown  in  a limited  way  from  seeds  by  using  shallow  boxes  set  in  a 
sunny  window  of  a dwelling  house.  The  soil  used  should  be  rich  and  mellow  and  be  collected 
in  the  fall  for  the  seed  boxes. 

Plant  the  seed  in  rows  in  the  box.  Mark  at  the  end  of  each  row  on  the  box  the  kind  and 
variety  of  seed  planted.  When  the  plants  reach  a height  of  3 or  4 inches  or  contain  two  or  tliree 
leaves,  transplant  them  to  other  boxes,  setting  2 or  3 inches  apart.  This  will  enable  them  to 
grow  more  rapidly  and  to  get  a good  root  system  before  being  again  transplanted  to  the  cold 
frame  or  garden. 

Some  gardeners  transplant  from  the  first  box  to  individual  pots  or  berry  boxes.  When  this 
is  done,  the  plants  may  later  be  taken  from  these  pots  or  berry  boxes  without  destroying  their 
root  system  or  delaying  growth.  If  this  plan  mentioned  above  is  carefully  followed  a garden 
may  be  planted  with  good-sized  plants  at  a very  early  date.  Then  we  may  also  plan  our  box 
planting  in  order  that  later  plants  may  be  ready  for  planting  as  fast  as  the  early  crops  have 
been  harvested.  For  example,  pepper  and  tomato  plants  should  be  ready  to  place  in  the 
gardens  as  fast  as  the  earliest  lettuce  and  radishes  have  been  used.  Care,  however,  should 
be  exercised  in  planting  out  tender  plants  like  the  tomato  and  pepper,  as  they  are  likely  to  be 
killed  by  frost.  For  information  on  the  dates  of  planting,  see  lesson  No.  11.  We  also  suggest 
that  the  new  plants  be  covered  at  night  with  newspaper  until  you  are  sure  they  will  not  be 
frosted. 

When  plants  are  to  be  taken  out  of  boxes  or  cold  frames,  they  should  be  thoroughly  watered, 
so  that  soil  will  adhere  to  the  roots.  After  they  are  pulled  the  plants  should  be  set  out  at  once. 
If  this  is  impossible,  however,  they  can  be  kept  a few  hours  by  being  covered  with  a damp 
cloth  to  prevent  wilting. 

If  the  soil  is  very  dry  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  all  plants  should  be  watered  out.  This 
mav  be  done  by  making  the  holes  and  filling  them  with  water  a few  minutes  before  you  are 
ready  to  do  the  transplanting.  Before  the  water  is  poured  in,  fill  holes  about  one-fourth  full 
of  fine  soil.  Place  the  plant  roots  into  the  damp  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  hole.  Press  this 
damp  soil  fii'mly  about  the  roots  and  cover  all  damp  earth  with  dry  soil.  This  plan  will  help 
to  hold  the  moisture  until  the  plant  takes  root.  If  the  plants  have  too  much  foliage,  a part 
of  the  leaves  should  be  removed  to  prevent  their  evaporating  more  moisture  than  the  roots 
are  able  to  take  up.  All  transplanting  should  be  done  late  in  the  afternoon  or  evening. 

If  the  weather  is  cool  and  sufficient  rainfall  exists,  then  the  transplanted  plants  will  soon 
be  throwing  well  in  their  new  location.  If  the  weather  is  hot  and  the  soil  very  dry,  we  should 
water  all  the  transplanted  plants  a little  each  evening  until  they  begin  to  show  signs  of  growing. 

Lesson  Sixteen:  THINNING  THE  CROPS. 

We  may  use  the  very  best  plans  possible  in  testing  and  planting  and  still  not  always  suc- 
ceed in  getting  a uniform  stand.  In  our  anxiety  to  get  a sufficient  number  of  plants,  we  fre- 
(juently  get  the  seed  too  thick.  Then  sometimes  the  weather  conditions  are  so  favorable  for 
germination  and  growth,  that  even  inferior  seeds  seem  to  produce  a fairly  good  plant. 

12 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


13 


The  above  results  make  it  necessary  to  thin  the  plants  in  the  rows.  This  thinning  of  plants 
makes  it  possible  for  the  gardener  to  eradicate  all  weak  and  inferior  plants. 

Thinning  insures  large  and  uniform  specimens.  Plants  like  the  carrot,  beet,  radish,  tur- 
nip, salsify,  and  onion  can  not  grow  and  develop  smooth  roots  if  crowded.  For  this  reason 
thinning  is  necessary.  Other  garden  crops  will  also  be  improved,  if  they  are  too  thick,  by 
thinning. 

For  instruction  in  the  distance  that  plants  should  stand  in  the  rows  see  lesson  No.  12. 
Thinning,  therefore,  will  permit  of  ample  room  for  all  plants  to  grow  and  insure  their  natural 
development. 

Lesson  Seventeen:  REPLANTING  THE  CROPS. 

Replanting  is  the  opposite  of  thinning.  It  is  made  necessary  by  poor  seed,  unfavorable 
weather  conditions,  or  improper  planting.  Replanting  is  necessary  in  order  that  all  garden 
space  may  be  utilized  and  the  maximum  crop  yields  may  be  secured.  We  should  rejilant  the 
vacant  spaces  just  as  soon  as  we  discover  the  seed  sown  have  not  sprouted  or  the  plants  that 
were  planted  have  died  or  been  destroyed  by  insects. 

In  replanting,  place  new  plants  as  nearly  as  possible  where  the  former  seed  or  plants  failed 
to  grow. 

We  can  sometimes  secure  plants  for  replanting  from  the  rows  that  were  thinned  as  described 
above.  Where  seed  are  used  for  replanting  soak  them  a few  hours  in  warm  water  and  by  so 
doing  they  will  germinate  more  cjuickly. 

Lesson  Eighteen:  LETTUCE. 

SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 

Lettuce  is  usually  one  of  the  earliest  garden  plants  sown.  It  thrives  best  in  cool  weather, 
and  for  this  reason  we  should  plant  the  seeds  or  plants  early  in  the  spring  or  late  fall.  It  grows 
best  in  a rich  sandy  soil  that  contains  considerable  humus.  Lettuce  grown  during  the  summer 
months  in  the  sun  is  of  little  value  except  for  garnishing.  Summer-grown  lettuce  for  the  table 
should  be  planted  in  a location  that  is  partially  shaded. 

PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 

Lettuce  seed  may  be  sown  broadcast  in  a bed  and  the  leaves  removed  from  the  plants  as 
rapidly  as  they  become  large  enough  to  use.  A better  method,  however,  is  to  transplant  the 
seedlings  in  rows  and  thin  as  needed  when  plants  are  large  enough  for  the  table.  If  the  head- 
ing type  is  planted,  the  plants  should  be  thinned  to  10  inches  in  a row’  and  permitted  to  grow 
until  compact  heads  are  formed.  At  this  time  the  entire  plant  may  be  cut  for  use.  The  soil 
in  the  lettuce  bed  should  be  weU  pulverized.  Sow’  the  seed  and  rake  in  with  the  garden  rake. 
Cover  seed  with  about  half  an  inch  of  sod. 

The  plants  require  frequent  shallow’  cultivation.  The  bed  should  be  kept  free  from  w’eeds. 
The  leaves  or  head  is  more  crisp  if  the  crop  is  forced  and  successive  plantings  are  made  10  days 
or  2 weeks  apart  throughout  the  early  spring  and  late  faU. 

For  a very  early  crop  lettuce  should  be  started  m a hotbed  or  indoor  box  and  the  plants 
transplanted  to  the  garden  as  soon  as  there  is  no  further  danger  of  a hard  freeze. 

VARIETIES. 

(a)  Leaf:  Grand  Rapids,  Blackseeded  Simpson. 

(b)  Head:  Big  Boston,  May  King. 


14 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


Lesson  Nineteen:  RADISHES. 

SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 

Radishes  do  best  in  a rich  soil.  If  sown  in  a poor  soil  and  their  growth  is  slow,  their 
quality  is  not  first  class.  Radishes  are  better  grown  in  cool  rather  than  in  hot  weather;  hence 
we  should  plant  the  seed  in  early  spring  or  late  fall. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  moderately  warm. 

PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 

The  seed  should  be  covered  about  one-half  inch  deep  with  very  fine  soil.  Plant  1 inch 
apart  in  the  row,  using  an  ounce  of  seed  for  one  hundred  feet  of  row  space.  For  a constant  sup- 
ply, plant  seed  about  every  two  weeks  during  spring  and  fall  months.  Begin  using  as  early  as 
possible,  as  the  roots  lose  their  crispness  and  delicate  flavor  if  allowed  to  remain  too  long  in  the 
open  ground.  The  thinning  of  the  plants  permit  those  that  remain  to  have  more  space  for 
growth. 

Cultivate  frequently  in  order  that  the  soil  may  be  kept  loose  about  the  roots  of  the  plant. 
Keep  rows  free  from  weeds. 

VARIETIES. 

(a)  Early:  Scarlet  Globe  and  Short  Top. 

(b)  Summer:  White  Icicle. 

(c)  Winter:  Japanese. 

Lesson  Twenty:  PEAS. 

SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 

Peas  require  rich,  mellow  soil,  made  firm  by  thorough  working.  The  first  crop  should 
be  planted  as  early  as  the  soil  can  be  worked.  Peas  are  not  injured  by  fight  frosts. 

PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 

Peas  should  be  covered  about  2 inches  deep  with  fine  soil,  and  be  planted  every  two  weeks 
until  hot  weather,  to  insure  a continuous  supply.  Plant  about  15  seeds  to  the  foot,  using  1 to 
2 pints  for  100  feet  of  row  space.  Some  gardeners  plant  in  double  rows  6 to  8 inches  apart 
and  3 to  4 feet  between  the  double  rows.  This  plan  is  specially  advisable  when  varieties  requir- 
ing support  are  used.  The  support  is  placed  between  the  double  row.  Brush,  wire  netting, 
or  stakes  are  used  for  supports  when  large  growing  varieties  are  planted.  The  wire  netting 
should  be  tacked  firmly  to  stakes  which  are  located  about  every  8 feet  in  the  row.  When 
strings  are  used  on  stakes  place  same  about  4 inches  apart.  Drive  stakes  containing  either 
netting  or  strings  about  10  inches  into  the  soil  so  as  to  produce  a firm  support  for  the  pea 
vines.  Cultivate  frequently.  As  the  vines  get  larger,  pull  the  dirt  up  to  give  them  support. 

VARIETIES. 

The  first  plantings  should  consist  of  the  dwarf,  quick-maturing  varieties  like  the  Gradus 
and  Alaska.  Follow  with  the  wrinkled  type  like  the  Telephone  and  Champion  of  England. 
For  the  fall  garden  use  the  early  dwarf  varieties. 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


15 


Lesson  Twenty-one:  ONIONS. 

SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 

Onions  do  best  on  well-drained  loams  that  contain  a large  amount  of  humus.  They  may 
be  produced  in  all  temperate  chmates. 

PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 

For  a crop  of  dry  onions  use  1 ounce  of  seed  for  100  feet  of  row  space,  planting  seed  Ih 
inches  apart  in  a row  and  covering  with  1 inch  of  fine  soil.  When  early  bulbs  are  desired, 
plant  seed  in  a hotbed  or  indoor  seed  box.  Transplant  the  plants  to  the  soil  as  early  as  it 
can  be  worked.  Plants  4 or  5 inches  high  are  the  best  size  for  transplanting.  When  sets  are 
planted  use  1 quart  to  100  feet  of  row  space,  placing  about  2 inches  apart  in  a row  and  1 to  2 
inches  deep. 

Early  spring  onions  may  be  produced  by  planting  Multipliers  in  the  fall.  If  only  the  new 
growth  is  desired  for  food,  plant  unused  old  onions  that  have  already  started  to  grow.  Onions 
require  shallow  cultivation  and  hand  weeding. 

VARIETIES. 

(a)  Sets;  White  Silverskin. 

(&)  For  Dry  Onions:  Yellow  Globe,  Silver  Kang. 


Lesson  Twenty-two:  IRISH  POTATOES. 


The  Irish  potato  is  a native  of  America,  but  was  called  Irish  potato  after  its  introduction 
into  Ireland. 


SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 


The  Irish  potato  is  grown  successfully  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the  United  States  and  many 
countries  of  the  Old  World.  It  grows  best  on  a well-drained,  sandy  loam  that  is  rich  in  humus. 

PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 

Irish  potatoes  are  planted  in  rows  2 to  214  feet  apart,  using  4 to  6 pounds  of  seed  for  100 
feet  of  row  space.  The  seed  potatoes,  called  “tubers,”  are  planted  3 to  4 inches  deep  and  the 
plants  should  stand  about  15  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Early  potatoes  should  be  planted  as 
soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  Late  potatoes  are  planted  from  the  last  week  in  May  to 
the  first  week  in  July.  They  require  considerable  water  for  their  successful  growth.  For 
this  reason  the  moisture  in  the  ground  should  be  conserved  by  frequent  cultivation.  Toward 
the  last  of  the  season  pull  the  dirt  up  well  around  the  vines  to  protect  the  tubers  from  the  sun 
after  the  vines  aie. 

VARIETIES. 


Early:  Early  Ohio,  Early  Rose,  and  Irish  Cobbler. 

Late:  Green  Mountain,  Rural  New  Yorker,  and  Sir  Walter  Raleigh. 


16 


LESSONS  IN  GAKDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


Lesson  Twenty-three:  BEETS. 

SOIL  AND  CLLMATE. 

Beets  can  be  grown  in  almost  any  climate  in  the  country,  but  do  best  in  a moist,  well- 
drained  soil.  They  grow  well  in  cool  climates,  hence  larger  crops  are  grown  in  the  North, 
The  seed  can  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary for  the  ground  to  become  warm  before  planting  the  seed. 

PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 

The  seed  should  be  planted  1 to  2 inches  deep,  at  the  rate  of  2 ounces  to  100  feet  of  row 
space.  The  plants  should  be  thinned  so  that  they  stand  about  6 inches  apart  in  the  row.  Do 
not  waste  the  plants  taken  out.  Transplant  them  to  other  graden  space  if  you  have  it  or  use 
the  tops  for  greens.  Perhaps  some  young  gardener  in  the  neighborhood  woidd  be  glad  to  have 
your  surplus  plants.  The  rows  are  usually  placed  about  12  or  18  inches  apart.  To  insure  a 
supply  of  young  tender  beets  throughout  the  season,  it  is  advisable  to  make  three  or  four 
plantings.  Under  favorable  weather  conditions,  beets  will  be  ready  for  use  in  from  60  to  80 
days. 

VARIETIES. 

Reliable  varieties  include:  Crosby’s  Egyptian,  Yellow  Turnip,  Detroit  Red,  Eclipse. 

Lesson  Twenty-jour:  CABBAGE. 

SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 

Cabbage  to  mature  early  requires  a rich,  warm,  mellow  soil.  The  seed  of  the  early  varieties 
may  be  sown  in  a hotbed  or  indoor  seed  box.  The  plants  are  hardy  and  will  stand  a light  frost. 
Cabbage  can  be  left  in  the  garden  until  cool  weather  without  injury  to  the  heads. 

PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 

The  plants  should  be  transplanted  as  soon  as  the  soil  can  be  placed  in  good  condition. 
They  should  be  placed  about  12  to  18  inches  apart  in  the  row  and  one-half  to  1 inch  deep.  The 
rows  should  be  from  30  to  36  inches  apart  for  convenient  cultivation  with  the  wheel  hoe.  Seed 
for  the  fall  crop  should  be  planted  in  June.  Transplant  the  plants  as  soon  as  they  are  about 
4 inches  in  height,  and  the  soil  contains  sufficient  moisture  to  insure  their  proper  growth. 

VARIETIES. 

Early:  Jersey  Wakefield,  Copenhagen. 

Late:  Flat  Dutch,  Danish  Bull  Head. 

CHINESE  CABBAGE. 

This  plant  is  closely  related  to  the  turnip  and  ma}^  be  used  either  as  a potherb  or  as  a salad. 
It  is  most  frequently  used  as  greens  during  the  spring  months  because  of  the  difficult}*  of  getting 
it  to  head  during  this  season.  The  growth  and  cultivation  of  Chinese  cabbage  is  like  that  for 
the  common  cabbage.  It  needs  a rich,  well-drained  soil  but  also  plenty  of  moisture.  For  a 
late  crop  plant  about  the  same  time  as  you  would  fall  turnips.  This  plant  matures  in  much 
less  time  than  ordinary  cabbage. 


LESSONS  IN  GARDENING  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES  REGION. 


17 


Lesson  Twenty-five:  CARROTS. 


SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 


The  soil  and  climatic  conditions  under  which  parsnips  do  best  are  also  favorable  to  the 
carrot. 


PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 


The  seed  should  be  planted  one-half  inch  deep,  using  1 ounce  to  100  feet  of  row  space. 
The  plants  should  stand  2 inches  apart  in  the  rows;  if  too  thick,  transplant  your  surplus  plants 
to  other  garden  space.  Cultivation  should  begin  when  plant  is  1 inch  high.  By  marking  the 
rows  with  radishes,  as  suggested  under  leaflet  on  parsnips,  cultivation  may  begin  before  the 
carrot  plants  have  come  through  the  ground.  The  growth  may  be  hastened  by  the  application 
of  a small  amount  of  fertilizer  on  each  side  of  the  row.  When  plants  are  large  enough  to 
touch  each  other  in  the  row  the  larger  ones  should  be  pulled  for  table  use. 

VARIETIES. 

If  the  carrots  are  planted  in  a clay  soil  that  tends  to  become  hard,  the  short  variety  known 
as  the  Golden  Ball  should  be  used.  This  variety  and  the  Early  Scarlet  Horn  are  best  for  early 
planting.  The  longer  types  like  the  French  Forcing,  Half  Long  Scarlet,  Oxheart,  and  Long 
Orange  are  later  varieties,  and  require  soil  that  is  deep  and  mellow  for  their  most  successful 
development. 


SUGGESTIONS  AS  TO  ORGANIZATION, 


The  following  suggestions  are  submitted  to  teachers  and  supervisors  in  the  hope  that  they 
may  be  helpful  in  promoting  the  organization  of  the  unit  companies  of  this  Army; 

Number  of  members  in  a company. — Ten  to  one  hundred  and  fifty. 

Age  limit. — ^Any  school  child,  but  preferably  the  more  important  companies  should  be 
enhsted  from  the  pupils  above  the  third  grade. 

Requirements  for  enlistments. — The  signing  of  an  enlistment  sheet  in  which  the  pupil  agrees 
to  raise  one  or  more  food  crops  and  to  keep  records  of  his  work  and  the  results,  reporting  them 
to  the  teacher  or  garden  supervisor.  These  sheets  will  be  furnished  by  the  Bureau  of  Education. 

A company. — The  maximum  number  of  soldiers  in  a company  is  150. 

Officers. — Each  company  to  have  a captain  and  one  or  more  lieutenants,  the  latter  depend- 
ing upon  the  number  of  soldiers  enlisted. 

Insignia. — For  the  private,  a bronze  and  black  enameled  bar  with  U.  S.  S.  G.  on  it.  For 
the  second  lieutenant,  a bronze  bar  with  one  star  in  the  border.  For  the  first  lieutenant,  a 
bronze  bar  with  two  stars  in  the  border.  For  the  captain,  a bronze  and  black  enameled  double 
bar.  These  insignia  will  be  furnished  by  us  upon  request,  stating  the  number  of  enlisted  garden 
soldiers. 

Enlistments  of  existing  organizations. — Any  organization  of  school  children  now  doing 
garden  work  will  be  eligible  to  enlistment.  Such  organizations  may  keep  their  existing  form,  if 
they  so  desire,  and  have  the  additional  impetus  of  belonging  to  a national  army  fostered  by 
President  Wilson,  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  and  the  Commissioner  of  Education.  The  aim 
of  this  army  is  to  nationahze  and  unify  the  great  work  now  being  carried  on  among  the  school 
cliildren  of  America. 

18 


